What is the difference between asymmetrical and symmetrical car lifts




















If the columns and carriages are built "heavy-duty", there is no need to "turn" the columns and reduce the "drive through" width. Our symmetric columns ensure that the widest of vehicles can be accommodated and still allow easy entry and exit to-and-from the vehicle.

A base plate lift can have short front arms and long rear arms; but this does not make the base plate lift an asymmetric lift.

To properly "load" any vehicle onto an asymmetric lift; all the arms lift pads need to be pointing toward the rear of the vehicle. The vehicle is moved forward between the columns and the vehicle's front wheels are positioned so that they are "just past" the front side of the columns. The two shorter front lift arms are then moved to about a 90 degree position to the column, and the lift pads are placed under the appropriate front lifting points of the vehicle.

The two longer rear arms are then moved to allow the lift pads to extend to the rear of vehicle, and the lift pads are positioned under the correct rear lifting points of the vehicle. This initial positioning of the arms all lift pads pointing to the rear of the vehicle CAN ONLY be accomplished on an overhead style above ground two post lift.

The front arm pads could not be moved to face the rear of the vehicle if there was a raised metal plate on the floor between the two columns. The shorter front arms could only be positioned in an asymmetric lift configuration if the arm carriages were raised high enough to allow the two front arms to "clear" the base plate when moved to face the rear of the vehicle.

If the arms were raised higher in the air, then the lift pads would be too high to clear the underside of many "low slung" or average height vehicles. Symmetric: This term can apply to both the arms and the columns of a lift. Symmetric Arms can be extended or collapsed so that all four arms are the same length. You can adjust symmetric arms to become "somewhat" asymmetrical, but symmetric arms are primarily designed to lift the vehicle "in the middle".

If you are lifting pick-up trucks, vans, or any type of "longer" vehicle with a "load" in the rear, then the symmetric form of lifting is the preferred method. Symmetric columns are installed so that the middle of the columns are positioned directly across from each other for the greatest amount of "drive through" space. The inside width of our symmetric lifts allows easy access either in or out of a vehicle. As discussed in the comparison between overhead and base plate lifts; the overhead two post lift offers more stability than the base plate two post lift because of the overhead beam between the columns.

The weight of a vehicle must be evenly distributed on a two post lift. Of course it will for a while. But remember what happened to Gunter and his buddies, you will experience severe wear on the bearings or slider blocks over time as well as the long arms as many of you already know.

If you have been really doing your research, you will probably have heard the term "Versymmetric" thrown out there from a few manufacturers. The theory behind this term is that they have designed an automotive lift that is capable of being both symmetrical and asymmetric at the same time.

This design mainly benefits the manufacturer, who has the ability to make any lift model with the same column and overhead and only has to change the lift arms. You will also notice these manufacturers use a two-piece Overhead and Column to make different height and width lifts with the same parts.

One opinion is that this design takes the worst aspects of two different types of lifts and combines them to really confuse a technician. First of all, a symmetrical auto lift can cause door dings and clearance problems with cars, no question. Second, an "asymmetric" lift that doesn't have columns rotated will still cause door dings.

Third, if the technician isn't properly trained on how to set up each and every vehicle properly, the lift will be used improperly. The end result will be an unsafe lifting situation with the vehicle, door dings and excessive bearing wear.

Some of these lifts are listed with the ALI and pass 3rd party testing. They can be constructed well, and the sales people selling the concept really have their pitch down. Having seen the products used improperly in the shops and having serviced numerous "Versymmetric" lifts that have had failed bearings slider blocks , our opinion isn't very positive.

Call us at Cart 0. Menu Cart 0. Asymmetrical vs. Symmetrical Lifts Approximately 40 years ago, when cars were built in the States and made out of steel. How to Identify a Symmetrical Lift The columns face each other. All four arms are the same length. You have a difficult time getting out of a car when you drive in. You don't have a difficult time getting out of a truck when you drive in. You have your local Ding King on speed dial. Gunter was not a happy man. We highly recommend purchasing a TRUE asymmetric lift when you purchase this design.

Sure Fire Ways to Tell a True Asymmetric Lift The lift columns are rotated 30 degrees from each other, facing the load center of the vehicle. The front arms of the automotive lift are shorter than the rear arms. You have a beer belly bigger than Gunter's and don't have a problem getting in and out of the vehicle.

Asymmetric lifts position the vehicle further back on the lift, allowing you to open the doors easier. Figure about two thirds of the vehicle ends up being behind the posts on an asymmetric lift. This also allows you to open the doors even further.

Most manufactures have symmetric or asymmetric lifts.



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